Saturday, May 26, 2012

Embroidery Thread color Charts

One of the things that has annoyed me is being able to switch between brands of thread without a problem.    On my quest to make the very best patches possible, I have tired lots of thread brands.  That means I have to match colors across brands.  Sadly, most manufacturers use a different color numbering system along with different shades of colors.

There are some color charts that can be found online, but going between some manufacturer's colors is impossible without doing it by hand.  Then you need to look at the thread in the correct light at a color matching station (I have access to one, yay!) to match colors.  However, that also means that you don't know the color you need until you have it.  That means you end up shotgunning it, buying anything that looks close.

As such, I have found out that some manufacturers use exactly the same color codes.  I'm not sure why; maybe because one is buying the thread from the other to wind on to spools?  I have no idea.  But I just ran across the 2nd manufacturer that matches another one perfectly.

The first thread that I bought specifically for embroidery was a set manufacturered by Kolors.  I got it because it was a lot of colors and cheap.  Sadly, it is pretty crappy thread, but the color numbers match marathon exactly.  I'm guessing that it is Marathon thread that didn't pass quality control.  I have no idea if this is true or not, but every single color matches with one exception, which may be because Kolors used the wrong label.  So Marathon poly numbers = Kolors poly numbers.

The 2nd one I just ran across.  I have used Threadart's bobbin thread, and it works just fine.  I have tried some of their thread before, but my machine didn't like it too much, so I only had a few colors.  I recently came across some thread from California Thread and Supply (CTS) and found out quite by accident that the color numbers between the 2 match.  So CTS poly numbers = Threadart poly numbers.  the thread is wound on the spools differently, so I'm guessing hey may have the same manufacturer.

I still prefer Marathon thread for its strength, color fastness, bleach resistance, and everything else.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Lyra Plushie Kit - Make your own Plushie

Kit is available here: ethepony.ecrater.com

I have gotten a ton of requests to embroider eyes and cutie marks for folks who want a MLP plushie.  Sadly, a lot of the detail on embroidering eyes and cutie marks is lost when I try to make a patch out of them.  The only option while keeping quality is to embroider directly on the fabric.  If you didn’t have an embroidery machine, that meant sending me the fabric, I would embroider it, and then mail it back.  That back and forth took about a month, and shipping cost was very high. I have been working on different solutions with a few goals in mind.  The goals I had in mind were:

Realistic - The solution had to look like a MLP pony and be 'On Model'. They definitely had to be better than the new TRU plushes that frighten small children.
High quality - The solution had to be high quality.  Quality is in the details, so the details have to be wonderfully made.
Huggable - The solution had to be cuddly and soft.
Durable - The solution had to be able to take abuse and rough play.  Kids (and sometimes adults) are rough with their toys.
Inexpensive - The solution had to be easy to afford so that everyone can make MLP plushies.  My specific goal was under $50 total.
Fast - Turn around time of less than a week so that folks don't have to wait.
Easy - the solution had to be as easy as possible for the buyer.  Preferably a ‘one stop shop’

Pretty much everything I came up with failed several of those requirements, especially the inexpensive one.  Shipping fabric around several times is not the best use of money.  Then, about 2 weeks ago I was in a fabric store that I had not been to before.  I was just wondering around when I came across a few bolts of high quality polar fleece.  I stared at one of them for a while before I figured out why it had caught my attention.  It was Lyra’s body color.  That color is insanely hard to find, and here was 20 square yards that I ran across on accident. That fleece had to come home with me, and the idea was born.  A MLP Plushie Kit.



My goal was to be under $50 for a MLP plushie, so I sat down and figured out just what materials would be needed, how much they would cost, and how to get them to someone for the cheapest way possible.  I pared the list down to only those things that are harder to find, and put them all into the kit.  When I was done, I ended up with a cost well BELOW my goal; only 38 bucks.  Even a pony like Rainbow Dash with a bazillion colors would end up under $50.

The Lyra Plushie Kit is designed to give you nearly everything you need to make a Lyra plushie.  The kit comes with huggable soft polar fleece in the right colors that has been embroidered with Lyra’s eyes and cutie marks for a professional look.  The embroidery sizing is based upon Valley Violet’s MLP pony pattern, which makes a pony at around ten inches tall.  The eyes and cutie marks are each 65mm tall (about 2.5 inches).  The embroidery itself is designed to be durable, and is overlocked at several points.  This means that if something happens and some of the thread is cut (say, on a ceiling fan as you toss Lyra across the room) the embroidery won’t completely unravel. The black and tan grid that can be seen in the pictures are each one inch squares for reference by the way.




The main body of Lyra is made from mint polar fleece, and pieces of medium green and white polar fleece are supplied to make Lyra’s mane and tail. Polar fleece is soft, warm, and doesn't shed little bits all over like Minky or other microfiber fleece. This makes it a good fit for a plushie that will get hugged, and not necessary put in a display case on a shelf.

2 bobbins of thread that contain about 120 yards of thread each are also included so you can sew your plush together.  120 yards is enough for about 5 plushies, so you can test to your heart’s content. The thread is 40 weight polyester and is color matched to the mint fleece. As all seams are sewn inside the body and none is visible, the color isn’t all that important for most of the plush.  The exception is the hand sewing required on the plush’s head.  The thread comes on 2 bobbins, one is size L, one is size 15.  This is equivalent to Brother SA155 and SA156 bobbins.  About 99% of home machines use one of these 2 bobbin sizes.  That means you can use one bobbin as a bobbin, and the other bobbin for the top thread.  Most machines have a vertical feed that will take a bobbin for the top thread.  In some cases, a spool pin or something like it may be supplied with the machine to support a vertical feed from a bobbin.  Check your machine manual to see if it supports this type of feed.  Do not use a bobbin for the top thread on a horizontal fed machine, and do not use it if your machine recommends against it.  I have never had a problem with it on any sewing machine, but you know your machine best.



What you get:
Mint Polar Fleece - 58” wide by 12” tall, and embroidered
Medium Green Polar Fleece - 29” wide by 12” tall
White Polar Fleece - 29” wide by 12” tall
One class 15 bobbin with 120 yards of mint thread
One class L bobbin with 120 yards of mint thread

What you don’t get, but will need:
Sewing Machine (or lots of patience)
Marker
hand needle
Pins
Polyfill – Nearly every Wal-Mart caries this
Pony Pattern
    http://valleyviolet.deviantart.com/
    http://www.etsy.com/shop/valleyviolet
    Or nearly any pattern where the end result is a pony roughly 10 inches tall.

The fabric is huggable soft polar fleece.  The mint fleece (Lyra’s body) is 58 inches wide by 12 inches tall.  For Lyra’s mane and tail, one piece of medium green and one piece of white is supplied, each at 12” tall by 29” wide.  The sizes I have listed here are approximate, and may be plus or minus several inches.  There is almost twice as much material as needed to make a Lyra plushie so you have lots of testing material.

Valley Violet’s MLP pony pattern is pretty popular, and there are lots of modifications to it that folks have done.  One common modification is making the pony sides from 1 piece of fabric instead of two.  The embroidered cutie mark locations support either one or two piece pony sides.

Hints:
The cutie marks and eyes are directional.  This means there is a left and a right for both.  When you cut them out, make sure you cut them out on the correct side.  Measure twice cut once!



Make sure to sew the ‘wrong side’ together.  When you make a plush, you sew it inside out then turn it right side out at the end.  That means the embroidery will be on the INSIDE of the pony when you are actually sewing it.

I suggest not using the embroidered pieces for your first pony.  Getting the eye placement just right can be time consuming.  If the eyes are not lined up, your pony may look weird.  Well, with the exception of Derpy.  Pinning the pattern to the fleece then holding it up to a strong light can help you see how the embroidery lays out against the pattern.  Once cut, it is all but impossible to fix, so take your time.

Tested with sewing machine needle sizes 11, 12 and 14.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Start your own Embroidery Business?

I have been getting lots of questions asked recently about how much these patches cost to make, and that folks want to start selling their own.  Sometimes MLP, sometimes not.  I am more than happy to see folks start up their own businesses, that's awesome!  The only thing I ask is that you don't sell the same things I do, as I would like to break even at some point. Anyway, on to a business explanation!



For the first 6 months or so doing this, I was selling embroidered stuff for less than they cost me to make, and now I sell them for slightly more.  I used to sell towels, washcloths, and the like that was embroidered with MLP designs.  I stopped doing that when I was homebound due to a medical issue, and was unable to get to the store to buy blank towels.  Now, I pretty much only do patches, but I will do other things if asked.  The business model and expenses I have below are for the patch process at 100mm by 100mm maximum size. You will need to modify it if you have a different item that you want to sell.



I used to get thread from Linda Z's sewing and Joann fabrics, one spool at a time. A 500M (550 yard) spool of thread was $5, not including the gas to go get it and such.  On average, the patches I make use 400 to 500 yards of thread between the top and bottom.  The thread is spread out between several different colors, so you won't use a whole spool of the same color at once, but since all thread was the same cost, it doesn't matter when determining cost.  So the cost of thread was $5, nice and simple.



The thread was the biggest single expense, but a lot of folks seem to think that is the only expense. There's also a whole host of other stuff. I keep meticulous records, so I know every last cost that goes into making a patch, and I know that there is so much more that can be easily overlooked.  Here's a breakdown of my current costs. The biggest way I reduced expenses was that I changed suppliers and the quantity of supplies that I bought at once.  Thread, stabilizer, needles, etc.  For example: instead of paying $5 for one 550 yard spool of thread, I now pay $2, but I had to buy ten 5500 yard spools of the same color (same as 110 regular spools) to get that price instead of just one previously.



 Then you have the cost of stabilizer (about $2) needles (about $1), and other misc stuff (about $1).




Before I changed suppliers and started ordering in bulk, it cost $9 to make a patch or design I sold for $5.  Now, it costs about $3.80 in materials (thread for $2 & the different stabilizers for $1.80) for me to make a patch that I sell for $5.40.  That's raw materials, but that isn't all it costs.


The additional costs on top of that $3.80 are electricity to run the machine (28 cents, measured with a kill-a-watt meter), Paypal/google checkouot fees (63 cents), waste of ruined patches (8%, 32 cents), and misc costs like propane, hobby knife blades, cutting boards, embroidery machine repair and maintenance ($150 minimum to get a tech to fix a machine plus $18 in gas), other minor things (about 28 cents per patch), and sales tax (44 cents for those sold to residents in my state, but only 4 cents per overall patch).  If you add all that up, it costs $5.35 to make and sell a patch, which does not include the time spent doing it, or one time costs (An embroidery machine, a table, storage, etc).  It could be about $2 cheaper (less waste, less materials, less electricity per patch) if I could afford to outlay about $20,000 for a professional embroidery machine with a hot knife, but that is too much to bet on making patches.  I would need to sell at least ten thousand patches to pay for the machine by itself.  Also, those machines can't handle the number of colors I have in all the designs.  Some MLP designs have more than 20 colors, even the most expensive commercial machines only support 15.

There is the shipping cost as well.  The $2.18 in shipping covers the envelope, postage, paper, printer toner, the cost of replacing patches that get lost in the mail, and labels. Overall, it works out to me making about 9 cents on shipping. Therefore, if you sum the money made on shipping and on the patch itself, I make about 14 cents per patch.  This amount is in constant flux, but now that I have made quite a few patches, I can say with pretty good certainty what my expense & profit is. If I use 3 machines at once, I can average 1 patch per hour, so I make about 14 cents per hour profit.  Definitely not a good business model if you want to make a profit.

Remember, this 14 cents doesn't include the cost of an embroidery machine, storage, or any other one time costs.  I have spent more than 4 grand on machines and hoops, which I am not including in the costs I have above. (8 hoops, 2 PE770's, 1 6800PRW, 1 ULT2001, $700 for a desk and thread feeders, and other mic stuff)



Here's the reason I ask you don't make and sell the same designs I do: In order to break exactly even with what I already spent (use up all the thread I have, stabilizer, etc) assuming the same waste and materials I use per patch now, I need to sell 1,579 patches.  I sell about 4 a week, though recently, that has gone up to somewhere around 8.  Assuming the same growth that I have seen since I started, it will take between 120 and 158 weeks to sell those 1579 patches.

I know several people that run their own embroidery businesses, and they all think I am crazy when I tell them what I sell stuff for.  Believe it or not, each of them has the same price for doing embroidery, which is one dollar for a thousand stitches.  That doesn't sound too bad, and a thousand stitches sounds like a lot.  But it isn't.  Guess how many stitches Rainbow Dash has?



If you guessed 19,186 stitches, you are correct.  A 4 inch patch of Rainbow Dash would cost $19.18. I sell Rainbow Dash for $5.40.  That is a much better business model, but still not going to make you retirement money.  Assuming the same speed, that means they can make about $14 an hour doing embroidery.  Much better than my 14 cents.  The $19.18 cost doesn't include digitizing, which is turning a design into stitches.  The people that I know that do it charge either a flate rate by hour, or by how many stitches.  The person who does it hourly charges $34 an hour (it takes me between 1 and 4 hours to do a design) and the others charge $5, $6, or $9 per thousand stiches.  It is a one time cost though, so the cost is less per patch if you get more patches.  But that would still add between $68 and $171 dollars to the cost of doing a patch.  At an hourly rate, that is much better from a business standpoint.

So there's my business model with some examples from 3 other folks who do this for a living.  Hopefully that will answer the questions I have gotten, and help you start your own business.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Plushies Coming Up

Sorry that I haven't posted any designs in a little while, I haven't had time to upload the files and do the writeups of them.  They will be coming shortly, along with a bunch of different sets of plushie eyes (Derpy, Rainbow Dash, Pinkie, Twilight, & Lyra).

So far, I have embroidered designs for a few different My Little Pony plushie makers like Hoppip, but I haven't made my own. Well, I am going to try making a MLP one, hopefully next week.  I am not positive who I will do, but for the first one, I will do somepony with an easy mane, and probably a female earth pony so I don't have the horn or wings to deal with.  I'm thinking of doing Applebloom, but not sure yet.



I just ordered a pattern to make a plushie.  Know what the best part is?  YOU CAN GET A PATTERN.  RIGHT HERE.  For $15, you get a physical pattern, and for $20, you get a physical pattern and a PDF so you can make more patterns for your own use.   The ponies above were made with the pattern.

Valley Violet is the one who made the pattern.  She put lots of time into making it look awesome and in writing the instructions, so you should totally get one.  Right now.

Sunday, January 22, 2012